Kanab Creek Loop - concluded

Kanab to Deer Creek Falls

The hike along the river to Deer Creek is a good one: fast enough, a few challenges, some route-finding, some nice spots. Much of the route is only a few feet from the river and the sand is mostly firm. A section from half-way between Kanab and Fishtail to the bank opposite Hundred-and-forty Mile (Keyhole) Canyon is a mess of huge limestone blocks. Good walking-stick technique enables me to actually catch up to Bob and Mike, who always outdistance me on the easier terrain.

Up-river from Fishtail the route goes up above a set of Tapeats cliffs that first appear at this point. There are several tracks and all are indistinct. These converge into two tracks that cross a drainage with a spring wedged into the crack. The shade and water are a welcome break from the afternoon sun and Marshall and I stop a long time. A climb above the upper layer provides a view up-slope and reveals that this spring is located at the bottom of the drainage leading to the Redwall break east of "Cranberry Canyon," tomorrow's destination.

A short distance beyond the spring the track descends almost straight down to the riverbank and then hugs the shore under another cliff. A "helpful" passing boatman offers his advice that we are going to be "cliffed-out." With the water a few feet higher it might have been true. The option, if this is not passable, is to go over the top and directly to the valley above Deer Creek Falls.

The next feature we have to deal with is a substantial spring along the riverbank. The bank is heavily overgrown with reeds and the water is over boot-tops. At first I thought the reeds must mark Deer Creek and I get really confused when we come out the other side. A short distance further is the base of the slope joining the trail to upper Deer Creek. Climbing this slope and going down the other side is the best way to the base of Deer Creek. We are lucky to have this popular spot to ourselves and we are hot enough to enjoy it. Pushing though the blast of cold air at the base of the falls and into the pool makes a quick conversion from overheated to shivering in the late afternoon as the sun falls below the cliff. Although I have seen the falls once by raft many years ago, this is my first time standing on this spot!! And I am elated!!!

Deer Creek Camp

Bob and Mike have already gone up. Marshall and I follow the trail into the Deer Creek narrows and spend time to take in every detail of this first visit for me, looking down into the narrows, and examining every hand-print and stencil. Just above the narrows is our campsite and we have this spot to ourselves as well. Temperatures for the night are the coolest of the trip.

The main point for discussion now is the distance we can cover tomorrow and whether to stay another night near Ghost Rock before hiking out. Uncertainty about water is a concern. We can easily carry enough to get out, but perhaps not enough for overnight.

Deer Creek to Cranberry

Bob explored this area recently on another trip, so we move up the west slope of Deer Creek Valley with purpose and confidence. We call the miniature slump-valley on the other side of the ridge "Anasazi Stadium." At the saddle west of the "stadium" is an impressive view of the debris-slope we are about to ascend. Opting for the simple, direct approach, we go straight into the ravine and, with luck, cross at the best spot. The angle of this slope is ridiculously steep (a 1-in-1.5 ascent ratio for 1000 feet vertical) and soon we are high enough that a slip would be quite a serious matter. The greater risk is that one of us could knock something loose on another.

At the top of the slope, two channels go up through the upper 50 feet of Redwall. Probably the left one is correct, but the right one offers easier access and so I explore it. There are a few climbs to muscle over with no exposure. But at the top of the other one is a large cairn and that one is easier except for 15 feet at the bottom. After roping up packs, we are all soon on top. Here I divide the extra water that I have been carrying in Bob's leaky water sack.

When the track turns north into Cranberry Canyon the walking is as easy and fast as the Tonto. We all start to watch carefully for the spring near the base of the two ravines that form the head of the canyon. No reason to be concerned -- we find it easily and there is a trickle of water, probably 1 liter in 10 minutes. And... we have company! Four hikers are coming down meet us at the spring. With the shade, water, and companionship we stay longer than any of us should. One of the group has been down here before, but a couple of the others look a little inexperienced for this sort of off-trail work.

Search for Ghost Rock

The ravine up to the Esplanade is another interesting obstacle course... the kind I enjoy. At the top things get a little uncertain and there is no track to follow. The next point of interest for us all is Ghost Rock, but the location given in GCLH-I is ambiguous. First, I check out a group of rocks to the east... that's not it. Then we go up to the northwest and start exercising our different opinions about which way to go. Fortunately, after losing one of our party for awhile, we meander past Ghost Rock on the southeast face, where the gigantic figures can't be missed. These drawings resemble those found in the canyons of southern Utah and are not seen in any other spot I know of within Grand Canyon. Although I would like to stay and take a closer look, it seems logical to go on given that it is still early in the day and we have people waiting on us at the Thunder River trailhead.

Trail and Return

The Esplanade is no easy go. It's an endurance contest with the seemingly-flat-but-not terrain and a sea of tightly-packed blackbrush. The incessant detours, and sometimes back-tracking, through this knee-high maze might double the distance traveled. Frankly, I am running out of energy and falling behind. We have a brief difference over which point above us relates to the Thunder River Trail. A map-check at a couple of small hills shows it's time to turn up-slope, and we find the trail quickly enough. Here I take some time to renew my resources by having some of my favorite energy drink. Although farther behind, this restoration allows me to catch the rest before the top of the trail instead of straggling and struggling. Cold beer hand-delivered at the top of the trail is certainly the deluxe way to finish a hike.

Analysis

This is one of the most straight-forward of George's loop hikes. The only spots that pose any threat are the Obstacle Pool in lower Indian Hollow, and the Redwall and debris slope east of Cranberry Canyon. Otherwise, there are just the usual difficulties of off-trail hiking: namely uncertainty about the route and available water, short sections of unexposed climbing, loose footing, and the high-energy demands of rough terrain. Time estimates for travel given in Grand Canyon Loop Hikes I are accurate for well-conditioned hikers or athletic youngsters. In fact, this group was able to cover the intervals within the times given, including rest-stops, and complete the route in 5 days, but more time really ought to be spent to enjoy all the sights.

Water

Water availability is an issue only for the first and last days of the trip. The Redwall sections of Indian Hollow, Jumpup, and Kanab may be dry, as we found them, but the spring in the north fork of Indian Hollow above the Redwall is probably a reliable water source in all seasons. The spring in upper Cranberry Canyon seems somewhat reliable, except that the vegetation here is not as generous as one would expect for a steady flow. And it is distant from alternate sources if should happen to be dry.

Difficulty

The route has all of the demands of an exploratory and off-trail route with few risks or inconveniences. Total change in elevation is minimal considering trip length.

Appeal

This route, which follows the bed of one canyon or another almost all the time, offers a welcome change from the platform and inner gorge travel typical of most other routes. Included are several of the most scenic spots anywhere within Grand Canyon, with many water features and Amerind sites and sights. We were doing the trip in the reverse direction of that described in GCLH-I and passed 2 parties going the other way in 5 days, so this route seems to be a popular one.